The Watering Hole

Computers & Technology
7 posts
Laptop Audio???  I have a dual core intel based laptop.  All of the audio programs like Windows Media, Winamp and such, run for shit.  Lots of pops and clicks.  Now, this fucking thing should be fast enough to run those.  It has 2 gigs of ram, 1.73 Ghz Dual.

I've tried changing the power features as suggested in a search.  I downloaded a program to change the clocking. As suggested at an M-Audio site, but no help.  Still pops and clicks.

I mainly use this thing for work and for email and such, so I'm not looking to put any money into a soundcard.

I just want the onboard shit to perform better.

Any suggestions or cures?
Check DMA/PIO mode. Go here: http://winhlp.com/node/10 ... then click the link that says Click here, using Internet Explorer.  This script works 100% of the time, IF this is the problem.  If it's not, it won't hurt your system.  

Other solutions are also available if that doesn't work.  Are you getting the pops and clicks through your M-Audio card?  is it Firewire?  If so, you probably need a firewire card... laptop firewire (and even built-in desktop firewire) often don't support the stability needed by real-time audio, though they work fine for transferring video from a camera.  Notable exceptions, some HP laptops work great with Firewire.  I bought a $20 Firewire card for my desktop... for a laptop, you need a PC card or a PCMCIA card, they're not very expensive... the best are made by Pyro.  Of course, if you don't have Firewire that's probably all a waste of time, although the same likely applies to USB.
No M-Audio Card for the laptop.  I was just at their site and saw a link for audio issues with laptops.  Since I had an issue with my laptop audio, I thought I'd check it out.  

I just have onboard audio.  Whatever the hell that came with it.  

Most of the time, I listen to Audio on My Desktop / DAW.  Occasionaly, when I'm working, I'll pull down some audio from this site, and such.  I have a decent set of Headphones handy, so I'll try to listen to FNJ takes or such.  The onboard audio clicks and pops, but it seems like it should work better.

I have no plans of using the laptop for recording, just the occasional listen to something.

So, I wasn't looking into spending any money on the thing.  Just get what is supposed to work, to work.

When I fire up the laptop again, I'll check that link and then get back with you.

Thanks
oh man i know all about this problem, i was trying to send music from my laptop to my receiver via the output jack on an older hp laptop. the noise was so bad it was unlistenable! i ended up buying a turtle beach micro audio advantage usb device for 25 bux. works like a charm! sends the signal via spdif if you want, or you can plug in headphones.
I tried that link, Charger.  It said that it reset the DMA, But it didn't help after reboot.

This thing does have firewire 4 pin.  If I was to get a Firewire card, Do they work with both 4 and 6 pin?

I did see an M-Audio output converter for like 30 bucks.  USB.  I suppose it has it's own drivers and should fix it.  I guess the HP onboard stuff is for shit.  It's an HP Pavillion that was rebuilt and had all Intel stuff installed instead of the original AMD stuff.  My Little Bro worked at CompUSA and got a good deal on it.  The thing works great.  Just the audio doesn't do well.

I'll look into that deal you were talking about, Aaron.  Sounds like a similar problem.
Generally, the built-in audio on a laptop is for shit. So that's pretty much what you are experiencing.  

If you buy a firewire card, it will likely have only 6-pin connectors.  You actually don't need 4-pin connections for anything, unless you can't find a 6-pin cable, they are pretty useless, no power, and no speed advantage.  Don't you have a USB audio card of some sort?  You can pick up decent cards on craigslist really cheap.
A-Man, I checked out that TB Audio Advantage.  That looks like exactly what I'm looking for.  Something small that is not a hassle to lug around.  The reviews seem to be good, other than the people who want it to work like a $300 soundcard.  But for bypassing the onboard audio, it seems perfect.  I can get it from New Egg for $27 and free shipping.  They have it in stock across the bridge at a Comp USA store, but it'll cost me $30 to drive over there. :D